Chapter Two: After a woozy trip to the Legarde vineyard in Mendoza, Argentina, Beverly tries her luck at wine tasting once again. Here’s what she gleaned:

I was only on the Malbec-producing soil of Mendoza for two days – and I was determined to learn everything I could about this fascinating region bursting with history and complex wines. Day One was a bit challenging, (click here), which put some pressure on our second foray out to the vineyards at the foot of the Andes. Saturday dawned crisp and bright, and my husband and I headed to the car with our map, camera, bodega reservations and clear heads.

We found our way to where grapevines stretch into the arid plain in neat rows like soldiers headed for battle. But then our trusty map, supposedly steering through the twists and turns toward Achaval-Ferrer winery, simply stopped short. Gravel roads turned into dirt paths, and the minutes mounted. There were no road signs of any sort. Nothing. We were forced to turn around and weave backward until we found a different winery where we could ask directions. Finally we pulled into Achaval-Ferrer 45 minutes late.

“Oh, you’ve missed the tour, but you’re just in time for the tasting,” announced Julian, our smiling guide.

Lesson One: If you’re visiting the wineries of Mendoza, hire a driver for the day. This isn’t expensive, and not only are many of the bodegas tucked into obscure nooks and crannies, you won’t have to drive home with several glasses of wine under your belt. Plus, you won’t be late.

Julian ushered us into a gorgeous tasting room where we sat at a large oblong table along with guests from Thailand, France, Switzerland, Napa Valley and Dallas, Texas. Julian proceeded to pour -- as is customary -- from the least expensive (called the “presentation” Malbec) to the most expensive “reserve” wines.

Ferrer-Achaval is a newcomer to the Mendoza scene, producing its first harvest in 1999. Mendoza contains several micro climates and each of these lends different characteristics to the grapes – and therefore varying qualities in a wine. Ferrer-Achaval owns vineyards in several of these micro climates of Mendoza and combines the grapes to produce its distinctive Malbecs.

As Julian poured a 2007 Quinera blended from Malbec, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon grapes, descriptions like “spicy,” “astringent,” “leather,” and “rosemary” floated around the tasting table.

Time evaporated. We bought two bottles of Achaval-Ferrer wine for about $20 each and then pointed our Fiat toward Melipal, a family owned winery known as much for its gourmet food as for Malbec. We arrived merely 15 minutes late this time, but once again the hostess said we’d missed the tour and that lunch was waiting.

“Lunch” turned out to be a four-course understatement. After a starter of trout pate in orange English cream, we moved to eggplant frittata with carrot and Malbec “soup.” Then came the quinoa and beet croquettes with melted farm cheese and chimichuri sauce. Next, beef tenderloin with a peanut and quince crust and a Malbec sauce. (Notice the trend?!)

This will go down as one of my most memorable meals – the combination of fine food, each course paired with a distinctive vintage from Melipal’s cellar, impeccable service, a chat in Spanish with the chef and a view of the snow-capped Andes Mountains stretching beyond the vineyard as we sat on Melipal’s wood terrace. And we were the only two guests at the winery. Such luck, (particularly after our varied mishaps), was hard to digest. Not so the exquisite food and Malbec.

Do you have a most memorable meal of a lifetime? We’d love to hear your story in the comments section following this blog.

Other tips, if you go to Mendoza:

Reservations are required at most wineries, and hotels are happy to call on your behalf. Many wineries charge a small fee (less than $10 per person) for the tasting, and often the fee is waved if wines are purchased. Lunches usually consist of three or four courses and cost roughly $30 to $40 per person, including wines with each course.

Ask the winery “store” to box your purchases with Styrofoam inserts suitable for airline checked luggage. (At the airport we paid $10 to have our six-bottle box wrapped securely in plastic with a handle, turning it into a makeshift suitcase.)

The best times to visit Mendoza are October-November (spring and a more intimate visit) and March (for the excitement of the grape harvest). The seasons are the exact opposite of those in the United States.